The last day of hiking, and the funniest one! After a day of not too interesting walking I ended up in a Resthouse in Munkerian, 40 kms south of Pathankot, where I had a few hilarious experiencies with it's manager. Read on for more...
Early in the morning I had taken a tuctuc to the airport, in order to get out of the city as soon as possible. It turned out to be a military airport where one couldn't get in, but that was not my intention.
Track on Wikiloc
An Indian Adventure
Thursday 23 November 2017
Wednesday 22 November 2017
Day 9
Today was one of the most beautiful hikes of all. Not a long one, only 15 kms, but through a magnificent area, following part of the Shah Nehar Barrage Lake, with beautiful nature and bird spotting. In a way, similar to Lake Pitillas in Navarra, but about 100.000 times bigger.
After crossing the dam, Shah Nehar Barrage, the road followed through nice villages, until I got tired and decided to call it the day. In the next village I took a bus, I wanted to go to Indora, another 27 kms west.
Track on Wikiloc
After crossing the dam, Shah Nehar Barrage, the road followed through nice villages, until I got tired and decided to call it the day. In the next village I took a bus, I wanted to go to Indora, another 27 kms west.
Track on Wikiloc
Tuesday 21 November 2017
Day 8
The next morning I was woken by a Whatsapp message from Lalit, just next door. As a perfect host he wanted to make sure I was getting on the road again in perfect condition. So first there was breakfast, then a hot bath, heated on a woodfire outside, and finally he took me on his motorbike (freezing cold, early in the morning) to my starting point, at the town exit, before going to work.
After another day of beautiful hiking, with the usual tea invites, selfies, chats, etcetera, I arrived in Talwara, just after crossing a river (not the Beas), in the state of Punjab. As I was walking into the city center, I was stopped by a young and very beautiful girl on a scooter, asking if I needed any help. A great reception!
Track on Wikiloc
After another day of beautiful hiking, with the usual tea invites, selfies, chats, etcetera, I arrived in Talwara, just after crossing a river (not the Beas), in the state of Punjab. As I was walking into the city center, I was stopped by a young and very beautiful girl on a scooter, asking if I needed any help. A great reception!
Track on Wikiloc
Monday 20 November 2017
Day 7
What a day! Today I got to enjoy one of the best examples of amazing Hindi hospitality.
After another day of 30 kms of beautiful walking, I decided to stop in a village called Saunt. Since I hadn't seen any place to stay for the night, apart from a very expensive hotel, I decided to take the bus in the direction of Talwara. I was told to take a bus to Chintpurni, and from there another one to Talwara.
Once in Chintpurni, I was friendly told to wait for the bus to Talwara, it would stop opposite the road in about half an hour. While I was waiting I got to talk to a nice man, who actually spoke very well english, and who invited me to a tea. And then the adventure began...
Track on Wikiloc
After another day of 30 kms of beautiful walking, I decided to stop in a village called Saunt. Since I hadn't seen any place to stay for the night, apart from a very expensive hotel, I decided to take the bus in the direction of Talwara. I was told to take a bus to Chintpurni, and from there another one to Talwara.
Once in Chintpurni, I was friendly told to wait for the bus to Talwara, it would stop opposite the road in about half an hour. While I was waiting I got to talk to a nice man, who actually spoke very well english, and who invited me to a tea. And then the adventure began...
Track on Wikiloc
Sunday 19 November 2017
Day 6
This morning yesterday's mistery was solved. After I was left wondering
why I had to undergo an extensive police check in the hotel last night,
the next morning I had breakfast in the local market, at a stand that
was recommended to me the night before.
After walking a few kilometers, I was stopped by somebody on the road who offered me a cup of tea, as usual. This time he turned out to be a policeman, off-duty, who explained me last night's visit in the hotel. The reason was that 9 days before, there had been elections in the state, Himachal Pradesh, and since tension tends to grow in these periods, the police checks the data of everybody from out of town, even from other Indian states.
Track on Wikiloc
After walking a few kilometers, I was stopped by somebody on the road who offered me a cup of tea, as usual. This time he turned out to be a policeman, off-duty, who explained me last night's visit in the hotel. The reason was that 9 days before, there had been elections in the state, Himachal Pradesh, and since tension tends to grow in these periods, the police checks the data of everybody from out of town, even from other Indian states.
Track on Wikiloc
Saturday 18 November 2017
Day 5
Today I walked about 30 kms from Dharanpur to Sandhol, a small village close to the Beas river. About 10 kms from Dharampur I joined this river again, that I had left behind back in Mandi, and followed it's course all day until Sandhol. On Google Maps I had seen there should be a Gurudwara and a Resthouse, so I didn't worry about a place to stay.
However, once I got to Sandhol (there was a sign indicating 'Sandhole'), it turned out there was no Gurudwara at all in this place, nor had there ever been. Google Maps was wrong this time, or just somebody had put the location in a different place.
Track on Wikiloc
However, once I got to Sandhol (there was a sign indicating 'Sandhole'), it turned out there was no Gurudwara at all in this place, nor had there ever been. Google Maps was wrong this time, or just somebody had put the location in a different place.
Track on Wikiloc
Friday 17 November 2017
Day 4
A beautiful day for hiking. It was a bit cloudy, the temperature was
just nice, a great day for walking in the mountains. Lots of beautiful
scenery, very few people, in short, the perfect day, exactly what I had
been looking for.
And today was the day of lucky coincidences. Just when I was thinking of some breakfast, I was invited for tea at a stall on the road with some Nepalese construction workers. And when I was thinking of lunch, the owner of a shop invited me to his house for a fabulous ommelette. And later, just when I thought of catching a bus, there was one. Taking into account there are only 3 buses per day on that route, I guess I was lucky.
Track on Wikiloc
And today was the day of lucky coincidences. Just when I was thinking of some breakfast, I was invited for tea at a stall on the road with some Nepalese construction workers. And when I was thinking of lunch, the owner of a shop invited me to his house for a fabulous ommelette. And later, just when I thought of catching a bus, there was one. Taking into account there are only 3 buses per day on that route, I guess I was lucky.
Track on Wikiloc
Thursday 16 November 2017
Day 3
After having been woken by the religious service, it was time to start walking again. However, first I wanted to give a donation to the Gurudwara, for the hospitality, and since I'd read this was how the temples were maintained.
Instead of just sliding a few notes into the hands of one of the present, this is a ceremony on itself. I was taught very friendly to follow the ritual: Shoes off, wash hands, cover head, bow at the entrance, then slide your gift in a box that's prepared for that, and finally eat a bit of a sweet substance that's being put in both hands.
Then, after extensive goodbye's, I was alone again. Ahead were 17 kms to Mandi, but I was thinking of doing more than that today.
Track on Wikiloc
Instead of just sliding a few notes into the hands of one of the present, this is a ceremony on itself. I was taught very friendly to follow the ritual: Shoes off, wash hands, cover head, bow at the entrance, then slide your gift in a box that's prepared for that, and finally eat a bit of a sweet substance that's being put in both hands.
Then, after extensive goodbye's, I was alone again. Ahead were 17 kms to Mandi, but I was thinking of doing more than that today.
Track on Wikiloc
Wednesday 15 November 2017
Day 2
After a good night's sleep, sort of, I got the phone call from Dave as he promised, at 6:30 am sharp, just to tell me it was too early to leave, and I should get some more rest, and he would call me later. But by 8:30 there was still no call, so I tried to call him, with no answer as a result. Here we go, I thought, my first example of Indian punctuality.
So I found my way to the bus station, and took the next bus, back to Larji. It was full, mostly workers and students on their way to work and school. Then there was the phone call from Dave. He told me he was just in the shower when I tried to call him, and I told him I was on the bus already since I didn't want to wait any longer.
And then back in Larji, I started walking.
Track on Wikiloc
So I found my way to the bus station, and took the next bus, back to Larji. It was full, mostly workers and students on their way to work and school. Then there was the phone call from Dave. He told me he was just in the shower when I tried to call him, and I told him I was on the bus already since I didn't want to wait any longer.
And then back in Larji, I started walking.
Track on Wikiloc
Tuesday 14 November 2017
Day 1
First day on the road, finally. As soon as I woke up, I took the bus back to Bhuntar. After a short walk, I got to the airport, and there, my baggage was waiting. The staff was very frienly, and took the necessary pictures with me. This would stay the same all the time in India, everybody wants selfies with me, it seems they've never seen a foreigner 😄
And then, after adjusting the backpack, I started walking. Straight from the airport, instead of turning north to Bhuntar/Kullu, I turned south, in the direction of Larji, a small village about 23 kms south. For a first day I thought that would be a good distance to start with.
Track on Wikiloc
And then, after adjusting the backpack, I started walking. Straight from the airport, instead of turning north to Bhuntar/Kullu, I turned south, in the direction of Larji, a small village about 23 kms south. For a first day I thought that would be a good distance to start with.
Track on Wikiloc
Monday 13 November 2017
Day 0 (3)
Today, things started to get better, solving all my problems one by one. As soon as I woke up I decided to go to Kullu, about 10 kms north. The bus takes just half an hour or so, following the Beas river, and there I landed in a small but lively town.
The first thing was to buy cell phone chargers, which was easy. Then find a place to stay. I had located a hotel on Google Maps that offered Wifi, an absolute necessity in my situation. Hotel Aroma Classic, just a few minutes from the center of town. However, we couldn't get to an agreement on the room rate.
The first thing was to buy cell phone chargers, which was easy. Then find a place to stay. I had located a hotel on Google Maps that offered Wifi, an absolute necessity in my situation. Hotel Aroma Classic, just a few minutes from the center of town. However, we couldn't get to an agreement on the room rate.
Sunday 12 November 2017
Day 0 (2)
Today a short day. I woke up at 4 pm after a good nap, and thought things would look brighter now. I went out for a stroll through the village of Bhuntar, a first getting acquaintanced with India. It was actually nice.
Saturday 11 November 2017
Day 0 (1)
What a day. All day on the plane, everything went smoothe, the flights connected perfectly, and about 2 am I was in Delhi. But then everything started going wrong...
Friday 10 November 2017
1 day to go
Tomorrow at 6:40 first flight, Pamplona-Madrid, followed by Madrid-London, London-New Delhi, and a domestic
flight to Manali-Kullu Airport, located in Bhuntar. 23 hours in total.
I'm trying to get lots of sleep these days, since the plan is to start
walking the first 23 kms as soon as I get off the plane in Bhuntar, all
the way south to Larji.
Thursday 9 November 2017
2 days to go
One day closer to departure, and almost everything
ready. Rucksack packed, just the minimum, less than 9 kilograms,
documentation at hand, passport, visa, credit cards, etc. The usual.
And then come the moments of doubt. Doubt about almost everything. Don't I forget nothing essential? Will the climate cooperate, not too cold, not too hot, not too wet? Isn't the goal too ambitious? Is there time enough to do it all? Will there be unexpected dangers? What about health? Available water? Places to stay and eat?
And then come the moments of doubt. Doubt about almost everything. Don't I forget nothing essential? Will the climate cooperate, not too cold, not too hot, not too wet? Isn't the goal too ambitious? Is there time enough to do it all? Will there be unexpected dangers? What about health? Available water? Places to stay and eat?
Wednesday 8 November 2017
3 days to go
It's Wednesday, November 8th 2017, and in 3 days I'll leave for 4
weeks travelling in India. The first 2 weeks I'll be all by myself, and after that my counterpart will join me to travel Rajastan together.
It will be an adventure. I've planned to walk from Bhuntar Airport in Himachal Pradesh all the way to Beas in Punjab, following the Beas river, which is one of five rivers that feed the Indus.
It will be an adventure. I've planned to walk from Bhuntar Airport in Himachal Pradesh all the way to Beas in Punjab, following the Beas river, which is one of five rivers that feed the Indus.
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